Thursday, 22 May 2014

Xátiva on High

Leaving Valencia, we drove around 1 hour south to the town of Xátiva. Before we left the UK, we mentioned to a few that this funny little backwash town was on our agenda, and as you'd imagine we had a less that excitable response...hmmm was the general reaction. But I for one was extremely smug that we diverted this way, if only for the plush hip B&B we came upon here - La Maga rooms gets a big thumbs up, but only if you don't mind a liberal approach to open plan showering ;)

The town dates back to Roman times, and was once ruled by the Moors, who occupied its impressive Castle until around 1241. Beautifully preserved on its perch overlooking the old town below, this stunning fortress proved to be the royal highlight of our trip here. Lucky enough to be staying at the foot of the lofty hill on which it stands, we set out on the hot hike upwards. Although prepared for the long slog, we arrived at the top surprisingly quickly and the views didn't disappoint. We idled for a while in its walls and gardens, lookouts and dungeons before enjoying a quick bout of archery and a parting caña out on the terraza.


But this was just the beginning - on the way down, we stumbled across a cute hidden Terraza in the old church Ermita de Sant Josep. Of course, being English our 1pm hunger pang had long since arrived - for once, a true blessing that the Spaniards are slow off the mark as a petit table for two sat blinking at us in the sunshine. And gone was the afternoon, amidst local Monastrell white wine, Boquerones, Anchovies and Artichokes all doused with a typically generous glut of Olive Oil (Birdy Organic if olives float your oily boat). Oh, and not to forget the loooong siesta which must follow!

A great few days in an honest, local and understated town - trendy but truly antique - and the perfect place to recharge the batteries before the next town (and fiesta) calling.






Monday, 12 May 2014

Voluptuous Valencia

Famous for its juicy round oranges, its luscious lemons and beautiful all year sunshine, Valencia became the destination of choice for our May (wow, it's STILL rainy in the UK) getaway. Having visited its older siblings (Madrid and Barcelona), I had high expectations. By golly, it sure did live up to the lifestyle I found and miss back in Spain!

Having chosen our preferred mode of transport (the bici of course!), we pedalled out in search of a Sangria. We soon discovered that the city is connected by a long thin park along the old riverbed stretching from the City of Arts and Science (architectural gem, and the most photogenic subject I have ever had aside from myself) to the beautiful old town in the centre. What a fantastic way to get around, and we were not alone in our choice as locals and tourists alike zipped past on the local hire bikes - well worth the weekly 13 Euros if you're there for a wee while.


Lucky enough to have our Valencian friends show us around, we strolled between open plazas, wonderful old Arab buildings, from  Gothic to Renaissance, Baroque to Neo-Classical. Not being as architecturally clued as we may like, we were happy to wander in the sunshine and appreciate the panoramic views from the Cathedral (The Seu). On the way out, we couldn't help but feed our curiosity in seeing the 35th most popular tripadvisor site - that of the mummified arm of St Vincent de Martir - complete with surprisingly sparkly jewellery and wax stamp of España which is preserved within the Cathedral. Tripadvisor review no. 655 - feeling rather queasy and extremely freaked out as i'm sure you will too when you zoom in on that photo.


Not wanting for that to be our final image of Valencia, we set out in search of the culinary delights at the City Market - a bustle of colours, smells and tastes from the lush agricultural garden surrounding the city, and the cool fresh neighbouring ocean. The perfect place for collecting goodies for tapas nights back in the UK. But we couldn't leave this humble City without trying the dish for which it is famous - Paella of course. I am a complete novice to this, and not wanting to be disappointed we followed passionately dealt advise to head to Albufera lagoon just out of town where it's said that the first Paella was created. And my my, what a treat - Arroz Negro (Squid in its Ink) accompanied by our trusted Sangria at the tasty Restaurante La Dehesa Jose Luis overlooking the beach at El Saler.

Bellies full, we said goodbye to this wonderful City and continued onward with a promise to a) learn to cook a decent Paella, b) to return, and c) never to allow my arm to be mummified.